The Glamorous ‘Old Hollywood’ Cat Eye
I am often asked “Am I too old to wear winged liner?” My short response is “NO!” You are never too old to wear makeup that makes you feel glamorous. As a working makeup artist, especially one who is obsessed with creating vintage glam looks, I have applied winged style eye liner to many women from different walks of life. For me, wearing winged liner is an absolute, a go-to, the piece of ‘résistance.’
So how do you cultivate it on different eye shapes and ages? I am going to share a few tips and techniques I use to create the Perfect Pinup Cat Eye.
Step #1) Evaluate your eye shape. Is it round or almond? Do you have protruding eyes or ones that are deep set? Is there a hood to your eye or lack of crease depth? Once you determine the shape of your eye and its characteristics, you’re able to move ahead with understanding your wing placement.
Step #2) Creating your vintage winged look can be as dramatic or subtle as you wish. Remember to take into account the maturity of your eye. If you have a hooded eye or excessive skin falling down onto your eye lid, then my suggestion is to make the ‘tail’ portion of your winged liner less dramatic and shorter. Choosing your product is also an important factor. I usually use a waterproof gel liner or a liquid liner. These glide seamlessly over the skin of the eye with minimal tugging. Most of the time I use and suggest the color black. However, if you’re concerned that it may look too harsh on your eye, then a dark brown or chocolate brown may be worn instead.
Step #3) Always aim for the wing portion of your line to go slightly upwards or out at the corner. Never down. If your liner goes down it will drag the eye downwards which inevitably ages the eye. Drawing the line at the outer corner first is a great way to start your wing. Tilting your head slightly back and looking down into a mirror will help push the lid of your eye forward and helps in ease of application. Start with a small ‘tail’ at the outer corner; you can always extend it for added drama. Once your tail or the end of your wing is in place, start lining from the middle of your lid down towards the tail to connect them. You can smooth everything out and make this portion of the wing as thin or thick as you like. The goal is to make a slanted triangle shape.
Step #4) Lastly go back with your liner and make a thin line from the inner corner of your eye, connecting it to the middle line, and fix any areas that you may have missed. Sit back and observe. Is there smoothness to your winged liner? If not, go back and add more product to smooth things out. Do you want the wing to be shorter or longer? Observe how everything looks and if you’re happy with the results.
Eyes are sisters, not twins. So if they are not perfectly equal that is okay. The more you practice the better you will get.
Lastly, here are some closing tips I would like to share. If you have access skin at the outer corner of your eye, then making a sharp angle upwards may accentuate the hooded look to your eye. In this case I suggest drawing a slightly outwards line. Another option is to make the ‘tail’ of your winged liner thicker, literally drawing over some of the excess skin. The goal is to keep the line smooth and seamless. Any areas where there is a break in the line will draw attention to that area. So make sure everything is smooth and even. Look at it from all angles and make adjustments as necessary.
If you have no crease or if your lids are very small, my suggestion is to keep the line very thin. You can decide from there if you like an outwards line or upwards line at the end of your wing. The goal is to have it compliment your eye shape.
I hope these tips and techniques can help simplify the application of the Perfect Pinup Cat Eye. Either way, makeup is fun, interchangeable and non-permanent.
Miss Audrey Monroe💋